I fished for three years without a dedicated pair of fishing pliers. I used regular needle-nose pliers from a hardware store, and I thought the anglers who spent $40 or $60 on fishing-specific pliers were being precious about their gear. Then I lost a fish because my hardware store pliers couldn't grip a hook properly in the dark, and I started paying attention to what fishing pliers are actually designed to do.
They're not just hook removers. Here's what a good pair actually does and why the difference between cheap and decent matters more than it seems.
Hook Removal: The Obvious Function
The primary job of fishing pliers is removing hooks from fish quickly and safely. This matters for two reasons: it reduces handling time and stress on fish you're releasing, and it keeps your fingers away from hook points on fish that are still fighting.
The jaw design determines how well pliers grip a hook. Cheap pliers have smooth jaws that slip on wet metal. Good fishing pliers have serrated or textured jaws that grip the hook shank even when both the pliers and the hook are wet and covered in slime. The difference is most obvious when you're trying to back a deeply set hook out of a fish's jaw — smooth jaws slip and extend the process, serrated jaws grip and get it done in one motion.
Jaw length matters too. A longer jaw reaches hooks set deeper in a fish's mouth without your fingers getting close to the teeth. For bass, this is a minor consideration. For pike, walleye, or any fish with serious teeth, it's significant.
Split Ring Tool: The Function Most Anglers Underuse
Most fishing pliers have a small notch or hook near the tip of one jaw — the split ring tool. This is for opening the split rings that attach hooks to lures, which lets you replace dull or damaged treble hooks without buying a new lure.
Replacing treble hooks on lures you fish frequently is one of the highest-return maintenance tasks in fishing. A dull treble hook on a crankbait or topwater lure costs fish on every session. The split ring tool makes hook replacement a two-minute job instead of a frustrating fifteen-minute exercise with your fingernails.
I replace the treble hooks on my most-used lures — including the Topwater Popper and Minnow Lure — at the start of each season and whenever I notice the points aren't catching on my thumbnail. The split ring tool makes this routine rather than a project.
Line Cutting: Why Dedicated Cutters Beat Scissors
Most fishing pliers have a cutting blade near the base of the jaw for cutting line. The advantage over scissors is one-handed operation — you can cut line while holding a fish or a rod without putting anything down. The blade is also positioned to cut flush against a knot, which scissors often can't do cleanly.
The cutting blade on cheap pliers dulls quickly, particularly on braided line. Braid is harder on cutting edges than mono or fluorocarbon, and a dull blade on braid produces a frayed cut rather than a clean one. If you fish braid regularly, look for pliers with a blade specifically rated for braid, or plan to replace the pliers when the blade dulls.
Crimping: For Anglers Who Use Leaders
Some fishing pliers have a crimping notch for compressing metal crimp sleeves onto wire or heavy fluorocarbon leaders. This is primarily relevant for saltwater fishing and for pike or muskie anglers who use wire leaders, but it's a useful function to have available if your fishing ever takes you in those directions.
Material: What Actually Holds Up
Aluminum pliers are lightweight and corrosion-resistant — the best choice for most freshwater fishing. Stainless steel is heavier but more durable and better for saltwater use where corrosion is a constant issue. The cheap pliers that rust after one season are usually made from carbon steel with a thin coating that wears off quickly.
The hinge is the most common failure point on cheap pliers. A hinge that loosens after a season of use makes the pliers imprecise and frustrating. Look for a solid, tight hinge that doesn't wobble when you open and close the jaws.
Our Fishingwolf Fishing Pliers are built from stainless steel with tungsten blade cutters rated for braid, eagle jaw design for secure hook grip, and a TPR handle that stays non-slip when wet. The split ring tool is integrated into the jaw tip for one-handed split ring opening.
The Pliers I Lost a Fish With
That night session where my hardware store pliers slipped — I was trying to remove a hook from a bass that had swallowed it deeper than I expected. The smooth jaws couldn't grip the hook shank in the dark with wet hands, the fish thrashed, and the hook came free in a way that wasn't good for either of us. I bought a proper pair of fishing pliers the next day.
They cost $35. I've used them on every fishing trip for three years. The math on that purchase worked out fine.
0 comments